2008.07.08 Tue 09:20PM

In Search of the Perfect Burger

In an age of sickening health consciousness and rampant vegetarianism, the once mighty hamburger has been vilified and cast into the fatty shadows alongside egg yolks and deep-fried Crisco.

Undaunted, I set out on a quest to find the best burgers in town. It was a tough, greasy job, but I live to serve.

I started off at McDonalds. It's a small chain of burger joints known worldwide for its commitment to quality and nutrition. Their signature burger, the " Big Mac", is comprised of two " All Beef�" patties, some sort of special sauce, lettuce, (processed) cheese, pickles and "onions" on a bun speckled with sesame seeds.

It sounded good, but tasted like the cow had grazed in a landfill for its entire life and the special sauce may or may not have been rendered manatee fat. Can someone tell me how this place stays open?

Next up, I schlepped to White Spot, a local Vancouver institution. They may be going through a fancy, Feenie-assisted rebranding, but it's still all about the burgers.

I went with the classic "Legendary" burger. It came crowned with a slice of pickle, which I think used to be the way Polish men proposed to their girlfriends. The much lauded "Triple O" sauce was just watered-down 1000 Island Dressing, and they smothered the patty with buckets of the stuff. Still, it was a pretty decent burger � even with the disturbingly soggy bun. But I knew there was a better one out there.

So I stepped back in time and checked out Moderne Burger. The lineup was out the door and along Broadway - it made me think I was in for a treat. Once seated, I went with a vanilla Coke (old school!) and the steak burger smothered in onions.

The handsome sandwich came dwarfed in the shadow of a lording mountain of fries � which unfortunately turned out to be the best part of the meal. Don't get me wrong, the burger was good, but it just wasn't "great". I wanted to like it, but the no-frills meat and bland, white bun left me sadly underwhelmed. And by sadly underwhelmed, I mean stuffed to the gills and unable to walk.

I was beginning to feel despondent and slightly lightheaded from heart palpitations. But my quest was soon to end. My delirious, nitrate-induced wandering brought me to Vera's Burger Shack. They aren't cheap, but burgers are like shoes and ketchup � you get what you pay for.

With gourmet offerings like "The Baja Burger" or the salami-infused "Cantor", picking was tough. But I went with my heart (or should I say, against my heart) and tried the "Four Cheese Burger". I fainted twice while eating it and got a bad case of the meat sweats � but it was all worth it. Gooey, spicy and not doctor recommended at all, Vera's took away me to a wonderful, beefy place I never wanted to leave.

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